Haandi

Haandi is named for the narrow-necked cooking pots that help lock in the memorable flavours of this Northern Frontier Indian cuisine. Some dishes are served in mini haandis, so you can see them for yourself, but the main thing is not how the food comes but how good it is, and here Haandi excels. First, the decor. It's all gold and cream and just as smart as you'd expect from a Knightsbridge restaurant. You can enter from front or back - the dining room is downstairs, but there is a splash of natural light on the Cheval Place side. The chefs labour away behind glass - amusing to watch as you sip your drinks. Portions are generous - be warned. Second, what's cooking? Familiar favourites made unfamiliar by their excellence. Try heera panna, which is calamari and monkfish sauteed in butter with ginger, cumin, coriander and tomato chutney, or one of the kebabs or vindaloos, the chef's special chicken tikka butter masala, lovely pistachio kulfi.Average price - £20 - £25 (€30 - €38)