If all neighbourhood restaurants were like this, the West End would be empty and the tube could shut down after six. Just India offers, yes, a light, modern take on Indian cooking that is confidently prepared and presented. But more than that, this busy eaterie is so welcoming, so friendly, that you'll want to return again and again. Funky purple details complement the straightforward contemporary decor. The Head chef brings fine training and a commitment to rustic regional Indian cuisine as well as a gift for modern invention to the kitchen, in dishes like clear seven-spice lamb soup, Syrian roast duck, fresh crab curry. Full bar.

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