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Morgan M is that that rare thing: a modern, formal neighbourhood restaurant owned by a chef with pedigree. Morgan Meunier used to be head chef at the Admiralty, and before that at the Michelin-Starred Monsieur Max in Twickenham. He's been delighting critics and burghers of Islington with divine French food since taking residence on Liverpool Street in 2003. Popular starters include foie gras on toasted brioche, followed by a perfectly roasted duck breast, the leg confit, with a poelee of cepes, spinach and red wine jus. Vegetarians have a dedicated menu - The From The Garden. Do keep room for dessert. Also remember to be on your best behaviour, as Monsieur Meunier often emerges to greet his grateful guests once their plates are empty. As they inevitably are.

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