In Italy, an osteria is the most casual kind of laid-back, make-an-evening-of-it eaterie. Osteria dell' Arancio takes the concept, the chef, and the name, from the Marche region of Italy and lays on some big city seriousness. Not its decor, mind you. This is a bright, witty set of rooms, with white walls, funky Italian flea market furniture, and colourful artwork. And the service, is professional while having that relaxed/not-hurrying-you-out air about it; actually allowing you to enjoy the experience. The seriousness shows in the fine culinary work of chef Massimo Garofoli, who imports the authentic ingredients (including salumi) from the Marche then creates unforgettable dishes with them. The artisanal Italian wines are open to view behind glass doors. There are tables al fresco and a communal table for sharing. Dishes are sweet or savoury, and include chilled tomato soup with crab, chargrilled peppers and cucumber, risotto with king prawns and courgette flowers, Venetian style

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