Fiore is flowering in St James's. This warm, modern Italian restaurant offers an expert welcome, fine contemporary cuisine and a very smart setting. The pale grey walls of the single large room are brightened by huge abstract oil paintings, bright red banquettes and white table linen. The menu is under the direction of Umberto Vezzoli and includes starter of asparagus with poached egg and parmesan biscuit, pasta course of linguine with lobster and Granny Smith apple, main course of panfried fillet of beef with lentils and tomatoes with Genovese pesto sauce, and dessert of Trevisan radicchio parfait with red fruit sauce. The weekly stravaganze may make you a regular.

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