San Lorenzo

In the pantheon of celebrity haunts, San Lorenzo probably has a little niche all its own. This long-established Knightsbridge eaterie was well-known as the famous persons' canteen well before Princess Diana became a regular, but because of that particular patron, the world's press set up camp outside the door. It got so that a star could announce the presence of a new lover or dump an old one just by being papparazzied with a partner leaving San Lorenzo. But for us mere mortals, the questions are much more pedestrian. What's it like to dine there? Upmarket and smart, probably sums it up. The Italian food has devoted fans and some critics, too. The bright airy dining room is all dreamy cream and dotted with palms. The menu is very traditional Italian. If you're watching your figure, as most of the clientele seem to be, then do have the starter of crudites with bagna cauda. Calamari is popular, as is the calves liver or one of the many trad pastas. The home-made ice creams and frozen yoAverage price - £48 (€69)