Bevis Marks

And now for something truly different... Bevis Marks, ladies and gents, is a synagogue (the oldest in Britain), a street name and a restaurant. And a mighty fine kosher restaurant at that if you listen to critics in their column inches. To make the most of Bevis Marks, dress up in your smartest threads, compose yourself amongst the high-flying businessmen and their chic lady guests, and treat yourself to the signature dish - traditional salt-beef with frites finished off with horseradish relish. Portions being of the size your mother would serve you, if you've got room left order the apple and blackberry strudel with cinnamon ice cream for dessert, then savour it spoonful by spoonful. They also serve latkes - deep-fried potato cakes strictly not for the faint-hearted. Light, airy and modern (yes, abstract paintings make bold statements on the white walls), the room has an electric conservatory roof that opens up when the weather's fine and a lovley courtyard at the front of the restaur"It's a sort of permanent lean-to against the beautiful 18th century Bevis Marks Synagogue with a sloping glass roof and a simple but modern decor that works surprisingly well. Food mixes modern and traditional, but there's nothing nouvelle about the portions: my nicoise salad may be the biggest starter I've ever seen. Jewish food is about strong rather than delicate flavours... the fish was beautifully cooked and my partner's chicken soup was as Mamma intended, with firm, tasty matzo balls.