Alastair Little showed the rest of the world how to do it differently way back when, and his Soho restaurant is still brilliant in style and execution. This was the first of the non-stuffy high-quality eateries that combined modern, almost stark decor (intermittently dotted with modern paintings) with revolutionary freshness and flavours. Now it is widely copied, but the modern French/Italian influence that Little incorporates into the menu here were once unknown. The service is smooth and time has not withered the stunning flavours of the kitchen one little jot. We recently oohed and aahed over starter of foie gras, chicken and parma ham terrine with cornichons, and main of fillet of seabass with Umbrian lentil salad, topped off with homemade vanilla ice cream with very old sweet sherry.
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