Local brewers Young's have done a fine job of restoring the 19th-century County Arms. Original glass screens, woodwork and ornate fireplaces have been brought back to life among stylish wooden tables, upholstered benches and sea-grass carpets. A predominantly local young professional crowd is joined at the weekends by friendly families.
The food is decidedly more gastropub than old boozer; starters include fresh asparagus, and steamed mussels. Mains range roasted sea bass stuffed with Mediterranean vegetables to old English sausage and mash, while specials tend to be more imaginative - for instance, seared kangaroo rump steak with hoisin sauce and black pudding. A big draw in summer is the decked back garden. Live jazz every Monday from 8pm.

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