Stillwater

In a world where chefs move more times than Superman has quick changes, hats off to chef Dom Cameron’s staying power. It’s difficult to find an award which hasn’t been won from 3 Goblets Gourmet Traveller’s 2009 wine list to The Australian ‘Best Food & Wine Experience in Australia’. He stuns critics with consistent innovation blending European and Asian traditions. As you walk into the stunning converted historic riverside flour mill, you start to understand the power of seduction. Old and new, contemporary and historic blend together. The parallel between environment and cuisine prepares you for the sensory journey ahead with two seemingly disparate culinary taste sensations. We are seated by one of windows which open onto views of the Tamar River. The evening light softens to a honey glow inside and we watch the ducks waddle around securing their nests for the evening. My partner is looking longingly at the mallards ‘Mmmmm duck’! There is something a little disconcerting to watch these cute creatures, as your partner is ordering crispy twice cooked duck with caramelized rhubarb Sichuan/star anise baby bok ,choy and sticky master stock sauce. The floor is expertly run, overseen by Mel Cameron who welcomes diners with effortless friendliness and warmth. Not words often associated with fine dining and the experience is all the better for it. Not once do we have to search for service or use flailing arms in the air attempting to vie for a waiters attention, glasses are kept topped up, needs are anticipated before they are even a want. You can opt for a six course tasting menu or go a la carte. We order the freshly shucked ‘Lease 65, Moulting Bay‘ oysters, which are catwalk perfect parcels. The oyster farm and Stillwater have a relationship going back over 20years. Clearly the relationship is a fruitful one and they are so darn good our waiter looks at us and our cleaned plate and offers us a few more (6 is never enough right?). He urges us to try the Thai style oyster shooter with nam jim dressing and dashi froth. For this piece of advice I am now a ruined reviewer. I fear that the culinary highs of future food experiences will never quite achieve the levels of ecstasy brought on by the mouth explosion of perfectly balanced flavours that would have Neil Perry speechless. Peace & Harmony eat your heart out. Dom is ‘da man’. The evening is flawless as we move from course to course each paired with its perfect partner in wine. The 2008 Delemere Chardonnay is soft and oaky. Every wine is served in its correct Riedel glassware. I am in heaven, few 3 hat restaurants show such attention to detail. We narrowly missed out on the legendary Domaine ‘Lady A’ but the Moores Hill 2008 Riesling compensates. Culinary moments of greatness include the spice roasted trevalla and prawn with egg yolk ravioli which weeps upon opening, melting into the palm sugar and roasted garlic sauce. The chef is a genius combing elements of surprise, complexity and innovation with a balance of flavours he outclasses many in his field at the highest level . Desserts are exemplary – why choose between white chocolate marquise with Vittoria coffee blancmange and strawberry coffee bean salsa or the Saffron poached Crofton apple on caramelized filo crisps with honeycomb pistachio nougat semi-freddo and rose water jelly when you can have both! Stillwater is truly one of the best dining experiences in Australia. As you leave the restaurant you may discover a new found affinity with ducks. Many diners (including us) develop a happy but very accomplished waddle out the door… (Date of experience: Feb, 2010 )